Two great days in Avignon

Monday 2nd June
During our first five weeks in Uzès we had visited Avignon five times, however all of these were to pick up or drop off family members at the TGV station.  On only one of these occasions (when dropping Elle off to visit Kate in Paris), did we venture inside the old city walls.

In the first week of June, after dropping William and Grace at school, we again drove to Avignon, but stayed well away from the TGV station.  This visit was to see some sights and explore.

After getting a good carpark below the Rocher des Dom (park on top of the only raised ground within the city walls), we decided to start the day by scaling the stairs to this city high point.  The photo below from a lookout in the park shows the famous Pont d’Avignon bridge extending most of the way across the Rhone River, with a tower in the city wall also visible.  When we first (and last) visited Avignon in 1996, we stayed in ‘backpackers’ accommodation on the far side of the river (top left in the image below).

At the same location an elderly gentleman was displaying and selling his etchings, many of which included famous Avignon sights.  We liked the images, and enjoyed engaging with him in French, so we decided to buy a small etching featuring the Pont.

We then walked around the elevated Parc, before descending to street level.  The stairs we took led us to the rear of the Palais du Papes, and we decided that was next on our list to see.  However, our access to the building was unconventional, as Andrew noted an open door being used by some workers at an adjoining flower show and decided it might be a short cut.  It was.  So short in fact that it bypassed the entrance hall where you pay to get in!  We noted three options:

a)      Backtrack, walk all the way around the Palace, then enter and pay

b)      Find the entrance hall and try and explain that we hadn’t paid but would now like to do so

c)       Push on and hope nobody requested to see tickets

We opted for c).

We had visited the Palace in 1996, and could remember some locations or elements, but 18 years is a long time, and a lot about the visit felt new to us.

Eventually we made our way to the top of the building, to the Terrace Café, where we had a light lunch.

Outside of the café there were great views, and a kind person who took a photo of the three of us.

On our way out of the Palace we found ourselves (by design) in the gift shop.  It was here that we thought we should compensate for our free entry, and seek good karma, by making some purchases.  Although Xaxier was very keen on the helmet and sword, we opted for a more practical medieval knight shirt (which was soon to become his favourite for the remainder of the holiday – you can see him wearing it in Avignon in several photos from the second great day below).

When we finally exited the building, just next to the correct entrance, we were able to admire the famous façade.

Wednesday 25th June

Our 1996 visit to Avignon was part of another large holiday.  For Andrew it was part of a 2 month post-MBA trip to Italy, France, Spain and the UK.  For Elle it was part of a 6 month post-LLB trip to most of Europe, with her good friend Rachel DaCosta.  And so when Rachel and Christian told us they were visiting France and Italy late in June, it seemed appropriate (if not unlikely) that we catch up in Avignon.

The catch up was logistically challenging, as they were only visiting Paris in France, and around that time we had arranged to visit Pilar in Andorra.  However, they were prepared to do a TGV ‘day trip’ from Paris to Avignon, and we did a big day trip back from Andorra (via Carcassonne) on Tuesday 24^th, such that Avignon on Wednesday 25^th worked for all.

With Wednesday being a non-school day, we should have had a full complement of children; however, William was invited to Raphael’s birthday party at his home next to their winery and vineyard.  So, he was dropped off first, then Elle, Grace and Xavier near the old city, before Andrew drove to the TGV station (yet again) to collect Rachel, Christian, Lucy and Alex.

After parking the car outside the old city walls, we ventured inside and rendezvoused outside the Hotel de Ville, where the children had several rides on the old carousel.

We then headed for lunch and found Nina Spoon, which looked like it would suit us (not too busy, separate tables for adults and kids, a separate room with retro games, and the option of both savoury and sweet crepes).  It was perfect, and we had a great time catching up while enjoying the food and largely leaving the kids to themselves.

After lunch we wandered past the Palais des Papes, where the kids enjoyed the silver men playing statues, before climbing up to spend some time in the Rocher des Dom and take in the views over Pont d'Avignon and the Rhone River again.

The logistics then occurred in reverse, with Andrew dropping Rachel, Christian, Lucy and Alex back at the TGV (for the 3-4hr journey back to Paris), then returning to collect Elle, Grace and Xavier near the old city, before driving to collect William.

A busy but fantastic day to remember.