Les Baux Revisited

After we (Andrew, Elle, Xavier and Kate) initially visited Les Baux on a school day earlier in May, we quickly concluded that we needed to return.  The primary driver for this was the Carrières de Lumières sound and light show, which was so good that we wanted Grace and William to experience it too.  On Friday 30^th May, a good opportunity arose during Neil, Gee, Theo and Isabella’s visit to Uzès, as L'école Sainte-Anne (and most likely many other schools – see below) had added this to the Ascension Day holiday on Thursday 29^th, to create a 5 day break.

In addition to it being a school holiday, it was a beautiful day, so the first thing we noted as we approached Les Baux up the winding hill was the large numbers of parked cars on the sides of the road.  Instead of continuing the climb to the main carpark we turned off towards the Carrières de Lumières carpark, planning to use that as our start-finish point for the day.  The initial feedback on this strategy wasn’t good, with the carpark full, and cars and buses driving further on to park further on down the narrow road.  However, we made a good decision to pull into the carpark and wait, with Andrew getting a park in 1-2min, then Neil getting one in 5-10min.  However, we made a good decision to pull into the carpark and wait, with Andrew getting a park in 1-2min, then Neil getting one in 5-10min.

While Andrew assisted Neil to get a park, Elle, Gee and the kids went to the end of the queue, which as the photo below shows stretched well outside the entrance.  20-30min later we entered the cave and the show.

The show was the same as we had seen previously, with two audio video presentations being played consecutively (a 5min standard show, and a 20min special exhibit on Austrian Art highlighting Gustave Klimt in particular.

In the photo above, Xavier gave Elle a kiss, while they were displaying Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’.

The five photos above were taken from the same location, a limestone balcony at the rear of the cave.  The first four show imagery during the Austrian Art exhibit, while the final one shows the bare limestone floors, walls and pillars between shows.  We stayed for almost an hour, which was enough to see both shows twice, and everyone really enjoyed it (even the three who were attending for the second time).

After the show, it was time for lunch, so we walked up the hill to the village of Les Baux proper.  Although much busier with visitors, it was still possible to enjoy the car-free charm of the narrow streets and laneways.

Andrew was amused by a water bath for dogs ‘le toutou bar’, which claimed to be 30% water and 70% pastis …

… and Xavier tried to replicate the welcoming smile from a poster.

Our restaurant for lunch was near the entrance to the medieval castle ruins at the top end of the village, and looked very inviting with shade over outdoor tables.  However, on balance it was disappointing, with lengthy service delays and an underwhelming (quickly melting) desert, which they claimed as an ‘award winner’.

After lunch we entered the historic castle and medieval display area, which we hadn’t done on our previous visit.  At this time, around 3pm, the heat from the sun was at its peak, and it was the first time on our holiday where we felt hot.  Intermittent gusts of wind and occasional opportunities to sit or stand in the shade being very welcomed by all.

It was easy to see why people have inhabited Les Baux for a long time, and why the castle was built in the 10^th century.  The hilltop vantage point provides excellent panoramic views and long steep climbs for anybody wishing to approach.

The two photos below show the ruins of the castle, which Neil and Andrew climbed all over, while Gee, Elle and the kids stayed in the shade watching a medieval display.

The big day took its toll on Xavier, who couldn’t stay awake in the car, despite the attraction of a large blue twisty lollipop.

Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard is the major tourist attraction near Uzès.

The following key points are taken from the Pont du Gard website:

The Pont du Gard is a Roman monument built halfway through the 1st century AD. It is the principal construction in a 50 km long aqueduct that supplied the city of Nîmes with water.

Built as a three-level aqueduct standing 50 m high, it allowed water to flow across the Gardon river.

In designing this three-storey bridge, which measures 360 m at its longest point along the top, the Roman architects and hydraulic engineers created a technical masterpiece that stands today as a work of art.

As a result of numerous scientific studies, we now know that an impressive volume of rock was needed to complete the construction, over 21,000 cubic metres of rock, weighing 50,400 tonnes! Moreover, archaeologists also uncovered evidence of how well organized the project was. They found numbering on the stones, points of support for scaffolding, and evidence of the use of hoists.

This amazing piece of ancient history is just a 15 minute drive from Uzès, with springs in the Eure Valley (immediately alongside Uzès) being the water source for the aqueduct.

We have all visited it now, with various combinations of visiting friends and family, and Andrew is a veteran of three visits to date (after purchasing a "Friends of the Pont Du Gard" annual membership).

It certainly is impressive to see up close, and we have had several discussions as to its scientific and engineering merit versus other historic structures, such as the pyramids of Giza.  The pyramids probably win in terms of engineering grunt and the additional age (5000 years old versus 2000), but the Pont du Gard wins on scientific excellence (multi-level arch structures, surveying precision) and design elegance.

Like most people, we have only crossed the Pont on the walkway atop the first arched structure.  We did once note a school group traversing the aqueduct on the top layer, however this required a guide with a key to open a locked security gate.  While traversing the primary walkway, it is fascinating to note the names and dates carved into the stone, many of which remain in good condition.  Most seem to date from the 1800s, although some older specimens can be seen.

On our latest visit we discovered tadpoles and baby frogs in the shallow waters on the edge of the Gardon River.  William was delighted with this and proceeded to spend over half an hour collecting frogs, and managing to hold eight in his hands at once.  Sometimes Roman excellence can’t compete with simple pleasures like catching small amphibians.

  

Although tempted by both prospects, we are yet to go for a swim or to canoe the Gardon from Collias to the Pont du Gard, like those in the photograph below.

Gordes, Luberon Valley

On Tuesday the 27^th of May we had a day trip to the Luberon Valley, commencing with the picturesque hillside village of Gordes, and concluding with a quick drive through Rousillon.  In between we had a lovely lunch with Neil, Gee, Theo and Isabella for Neil’s birthday, but that will feature in an upcoming post on spectacular meals we have had in and around Uzes.

Gordes has a big reputation as a scenic tourist town, and it didn’t disappoint.  Perched on the side of a hill, with gorgeous views out over the Luberon, it is a photographers’ paradise.

As luck would have it, Tuesday was market day, so we were able to wander around the village sampling nougat, honey, cheese and other local produce.

The nougat stall in particular was a big hit.

Slightly away from the market we spotted this very pretty fruit shop.

In the centre of town is the old castle, around which the market stalls are set up.

Xavier and Andrew went for a walk down a steep cobblestone path, to a lovely location with fantastic valley views.  After trudging back up to the market, Andrew convinced all others to do the walk to enable several family and valley floor photos to be taken.

Xavier with Peppa Pig backpack (most likely containing a cement mixer and excavator)

Snow in Provence (Mont Ventoux)

On the night of Friday, the 23^rd of May, we had our first significant rain event while in Uzes.  In fact, it was quite a spectacular storm, with regular thunder claps and forked lightning, and including a short burst of hail.  William and Grace were very excited by the event, but Xavier slept through it.

None of Andrew’s efforts to capture this dramatic event are worthy of reproducing, but the photo below from Grace and William’s bedroom window shows the cloud front rolling over the town just prior to the action commencing.

The next morning we awoke to a beautiful day, notable for the exceptionally clear blue sky; we could see distant hills much more clearly than ever before.  Noting these conditions, Andrew's eyes lit up with inspiration: this might be the perfect day to visit Mont Ventoux, a one-and-a-half hour drive from Uzès!

Since becoming fans of the Tour de France about eight years ago (consolidated by our three years in Perth, where the two-hour time difference makes a huge difference to television-viewing convenience), we have become increasingly familiar with Mont Ventoux, and we had it on our list of potential day trips.

The only event scheduled for the day was a morning Skype call with our friends the Johnson family.  This was quite fortuitous, as Mark is an avid cyclist, and had climbed Ventoux - by bike - in 2011, while Helen, Evelyn, Frances and George joined him using their (and our) preferred method .... la voiture.  Mark encouraged us to drive to the summit, passionately selling the merits of a world-class souvenir shop, and also mentioning something about views over Provence and the Alps.

William skyping best friend George

The day was so clear that (once we figured it out) we realised we could clearly see Mont Ventoux soon after we left Uzès.  The fact that it has no significant neighbouring mountains meant that we watched it looming larger and larger for the entire journey.  As we approached its base at the village of Bédoin we decided to take a photo including some of the local vines, and noting the billboard in the image below, wondered whether Mark had another local interest.

The drive to the summit is very interesting, with a significant number of cyclists undertaking the climb and descent, making for: (a) challenging driving conditions, and (b) an enhanced appreciation of tour racing conditions.  The photo below approaching the summit includes 3 modes of transportation, and left us wondering whether the elderly man was planning to descend all the way to Bedoin on foot.

Once parked near the summit we were entertained for about half an hour by an expected attraction (the view north-east  towards the Alps), and two unexpected attractions.  The first of these was a glider pilot using thermals alongside and above Ventoux to provide lift, resulting in some very close views (on one run past he was at the same elevation as us and about 30 metres away waving hello).

The second was the presence of snow.  There wasn’t much, but it was enough for Grace and William to have snowball fights, and for Xavier to touch and feel it for the first ever time.  We expect the locals were amused at how such a small quantity of snow could result in so many loud shrieks of joy and fear.

Note the glider above Grace and Xavier

We then walked to the summit and admired the views south over Provence, took some photos, threw a few more snowballs and made some modest purchases in the gift shop (as instructed by Mark).

The descent via the road to Malaucène was easier than the ascent, with far less cyclists, and we enjoyed some stunning views over vineyards and olive groves around Carpentras.