Friday, May 16, 2014

May birthdays for Andrew and Elle

Saturday, 3 May

For Andrew’s birthday, he decided he would like to visit the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine region, which is about a 45 minute drive from Uzès.  The plan was to visit two or three Domaines (producers) for degustation (wine tasting), and to visit the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The 3rd of May was to be our first attempt at degustation on this trip.  Prior to departing Australia, Andrew had done some research on visiting Domaines in the Southern Rhone region for degustation, and specifically in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (or CdP, as noted in internet articles, and which we found very handy for navigation discussions in the car).  As many articles advised, it is a different experience to what we are used to in Australia.  In short, the number of Domaines open for unbooked visitors is quite low.  Around Uzès we have noted that producers often join together to create a cooperative tasting and selling facility.  Another model, used extensively in CdP, is for Domaines to taste and sell wines in specific shops in the local village, called Caves.  However, a small wine merchant in Uzès had recommended Chateau Mont-Redon and Chateau La Nerthe as good options for les degustation visites.

A feature of the day was the presence of the mistral, a very strong wind that frequents Provence.  On more than one occasion we were almost swept of our feet, or in danger of being crushed by a slamming door.  The photo below shows Elle battling to hang on to a map.


Our first visit was to Mont-Redon.  This proved a little difficult for the Peugeot GPS system to find, and were it not for Elle encouraging Andrew to drive a little further on what he believed increasingly to be a wild goose chase, we may not have found it.  Even when we did find it, despite the Domaine having all the hallmarks of an Australian “cellar door” (large buildings, signs indicating a tasting room, and an ouvert sign), we were still not certain we were welcome.  However, after ringing the buzzer on the tasting room door, and meeting Phillipe, all concerns were allayed.  Despite frequently having to resort to his very good English, Phillipe encouraged our efforts to communicate en français, and more importantly, provided us an excellent personal tasting session of the Domaine’s wines.


A feature of the tasting was the opportunity to taste a range of vintages of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge (2011, 2010, 2009, 2006 and 2004).  Phillipe shared his view that these wines really should be cellared for 10 years before drinking.  Although the young wines were very nice, we agreed with his view after tasting the 2004 and 2006 (our favourite).  At about the same time we were discussing the wine age topic, we noticed a sheet of paper indicating they sold several very old back vintages, and luck was on our side with the 1966 (Andrew’s birth year) available for purchase.  It was too good a special opportunity to pass up.


Our second Domaine visite and degustation was at La Nerthe, where we tasted a smaller collection of wines, and then enjoyed a short walk around the Chateau and surrounding grounds.  During the walk around we noted a particularly stunning view over the vineayds to a neighbouring chateau.


In between the two visits we had a nice lunch in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The village is quite pretty in places, but perhaps too dominated by the wine industry (somewhat like Tanunda and Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley); every second store seems to be a cave a vins. (Who would have thought Andrew would write that?)


Before departing the village, we walked up the hill to see the remnants of the Popes’ Chateau (the weekender, away from Avignon).  Although the photo doesn't show it, the wind was so strong that we were not just concerned for the kids safety (staying upright walking up/down cobblestone paths and steps), but our own.  Fortunately, Andrew at least was able to remain upright and get to the top to take in the stunning views of vineyards and villages, with the Rhone River in the distance.

After a successful first foray into degustation, we returned home for dinner, including a lovely tarte aux fraises for le gateau d'anniversaire.



Friday, 16 May

We started Elle’s birthday with cards and presents over family breakfast including Elle's sister, Kate, then we headed to Les Baux-de-Provence, about a one-hour drive from Uzès.  We had seen Les Baux from a distance on our previous trip to Provence in 1996, but our 1996 backpacking companion, Rachel, had visited since, and strongly recommended that we go too.
Perched atop a rocky outcrop, Les Baux is a very small village with narrow steep roads and alleys.  Visitors park their cars outside the one village access point, and walk in and around.  It is very attractive, with well-preserved and characterful old buildings, including a chateau that dominates close to half of the village, and many views out over the surrounding countryside.
With the first decade of his career being in aluminium smelting, Andrew was interested in another historical artefact from Les Baux.  That is, it was where bauxite was first dicovered (hence the name).
As it had been on Andrew's birthday, the mistral was blowing strong and cold, and Elle was amused to note the forecast wind speed.

After a stroll around the town and a very casual lunch, (overwhelmed by the responsibility of choosing a venue, Elle went for cheap and cheerful, which was fine, but she subsequently thought she should have chosen less cheap and more sophisticated!), we walked out of Les Baux and made the 10 minute downhill walk to the Carrières de Lumières.  Despite Rachel’s best efforts to describe it, we were not quite sure what exactly this was, but after entering the venue we were immediately impressed by the concept.  In short, a disused underground limestone mine was cleaned up in the 1970s and turned into a giant indoor canvas for projected art shows.
The show comprises a 10-minute image and sound show, followed by a 30-minute feature exhibition.  Currently, the feature is Viennese art, with a particular focus on Gustav Klimt (famous for The Kiss painting, amongst others).  Through surround-sound, an orchestral soundtrack very much enhances the visual experience.  In between screenings, a low white light enables you to see the limestone walls which act as screens.  We all loved the show, and ended up watching close to two complete screenings.  The images below will not do justice to the event, because they are sub-scale and have no sound.




Xavier enjoyed himself, but we did have to hold his hand in low light to ensure we didn't lose him.





The following two photos were taken from the same location, and give a 'before and after' look of the limestone quarry converting to the multimedia 'gallery'.

A very special day out was capped off by the arrival of Elle’s mum and aunt from Melbourne (via Paris), and sharing a wonderful meal beautifully prepared by Elle’s sister Kate.

2 comments:

  1. The gallery is incredible!! Unforgettable.

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  2. Yes Helen, I could have watched it over and over again! xx

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